The Santorini Conundrum

Santorini: there is no place on earth quite like it. I had the good fortune to visit over 40 years ago when development between the capital city of Fira and the village of Oia was almost non-existent. Now, the entire crescent of the Caldera is dotted with white-washed and blue-domed Cycladic structures. From mid-June to mid-September, this unique Caldera view translates into sky-high accommodation rates, and is often the splurge destination of summer holidays in Greece.

Santorini, View from the Caldera; adobe

To complicate matters, travelers staying on the island looking for serenity and relaxation will have to compete for space with cruise ship arrivals. For example, on 4 June 2024 – a date selected at random – there are 6 cruise ships calling at Santorini with a total passenger capacity of 16,782. Four ships have morning arrivals, and two have early afternoon, so not all will be on the island at once. By early evening, the cruise passenger numbers start to decline, which brings a modicum of sanity back to the island. There are some efforts to lower the capacity of cruise arrivals on Santorini and other highly popular islands in order to improve the overall experience. Until that happens, here is what you can do to ease the impact of the cruise crowds:

• Plan your sightseeing for the early morning or late afternoon: Many tourists visit popular spots like Oia and Fira during the middle of the day. If your hotel has a nice pool, spend time there between your morning and afternoon/evening activities.

• If you plan to walk the entire 6 miles of the Caldera Trail from Fira to Oia, set out as early as possible to avoid the heat as well as the crowds. This is particularly important in July and August. The walk takes 3-4 hours, and is best started at Fira and ending in Oia as this direction is mostly downhill, making the walk a bit easier.

• Explore lesser-known villages: Santorini is not just about Oia and Fira. There are several other charming villages on the island that offer a more peaceful experience, such as Pyrgos, Emporio, or Megalochori. Ask hotel staff for recommendations and assistance.

• Head to Perissa or Perivolas beach, early enough to claim a sun lounger and umbrella. The cruise passengers spend their time in Fira, Oia and the site of Akrotiri, so there is some peace to be had at the opposite side of the island. Being a volcanic island, the beaches all have dark sand, but the water is very clear and swimming is generally excellent.

• Avoid visiting the archaeological site of Akrotiri during cruise ship arrival and shore excursion times. The best time to visit Akrotiri at the height of summer is 5pm-8pm, or at 8am sharp when the site opens; and, consider hiring a private guide in advance.

• Book accommodations away from the main towns on the Caldera. This will not only provide a quieter environment and better value, but also give you a chance to experience the local culture and lifestyle which can be hard to find in high season.

• Take a sunset cruise: Instead of jostling for space in crowded areas to watch the sunset, consider booking a sunset cruise. This way, you can enjoy the stunning views from the water while avoiding the crowds on land. Barbarossa Sailing is just one company offering half and full day sailings.

• Take a day trip to tiny Thirasia island just offshore. Explore Thirasia offers walking, hiking and e-bike tours around this rustic island with its historic winery and three traditional settlements.

• If you are lucky enough to have Caldera-view accommodations with a balcony, watch the sunset from there with your travel companions.

• Visit during the off-peak season: Consider visiting during the shoulder seasons of spring (April to May) or autumn (mid-September to October) when the weather is still pleasant but the crowds are thinner.

Firostefani, c2000

Santorini is indeed a beautiful and unique place, and understandably one that first-time visitors to Greece consider a must-see. With a little advance planning, some of the challenges of a summer visit can be overcome, and you will have countless extraordinary photos and lasting memories from your island stay.

S. Orphanos, 1 July 2023